Can A Jeweler Tell If A Diamond Is Lab-Grown?
Visual Inspection: Can Jewelers Spot Lab Diamonds?
Many customers ask us at Emerson Fine Jewelry whether a jeweler can identify a lab-grown diamond simply by looking at it. The straightforward answer is no – with the naked eye alone, even experienced jewelers cannot reliably distinguish between lab-grown and natural diamonds. This is because lab-grown diamonds have identical physical, chemical, and optical properties to natural diamonds. Both are made of crystallized carbon in an isometric cubic arrangement, both exhibit the same brilliance, fire, and sparkle that diamonds are known for.
When examining any diamond in our store, we assess the 4Cs (cut, color, clarity, and carat weight) regardless of its origin. A well-cut lab diamond will display the same light performance as a natural diamond of equivalent quality. The atomic structure is identical, which means the way light interacts with the stone – entering, reflecting, and dispersing – creates the same visual effect. This similarity is precisely what makes visual differentiation virtually impossible.
Some jewelers might claim they can “just tell” the difference, but such claims should be met with skepticism. Scientific studies and blind tests have repeatedly shown that even experts cannot consistently identify lab diamonds through visual inspection alone. The technology behind lab diamond creation has advanced so significantly that the resulting stones are optically perfect replicas of what nature creates over millions of years.
What jewelers are actually detecting when they claim to “see” differences are typically secondary characteristics that might be more common in one type versus the other, but these are not definitive indicators. For truly accurate identification, jewelers must rely on specialized equipment, which we’ll discuss in the next section.
Diamond Testing Equipment: Tools Jewelers Use
At Emerson Fine Jewelry, we utilize several sophisticated instruments to definitively distinguish between natural and lab-grown diamonds. These technological tools are essential because, as mentioned earlier, visual inspection alone is insufficient for accurate identification.
The most basic equipment jewelers use is a thermal conductivity tester, which measures how quickly a diamond conducts heat. However, this tool is primarily designed to separate diamonds from diamond simulants like cubic zirconia or moissanite. Since lab-grown diamonds have identical thermal properties to natural diamonds, this test cannot differentiate between the two.
More specialized equipment includes spectroscopy devices that analyze how diamonds interact with different wavelengths of light. Fourier-Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) can detect certain impurities common in natural diamonds but typically absent in lab-grown ones. Similarly, photoluminescence spectroscopy can reveal growth patterns characteristic of lab creation processes.
The most definitive tool available to jewelers is the DiamondSure/DiamondView machine developed by the De Beers Group. This sophisticated device uses short-wave ultraviolet light to reveal fluorescence patterns that differ between natural and lab-grown diamonds. Under this specialized lighting, lab diamonds often display distinctive growth patterns and fluorescence characteristics that natural diamonds don’t exhibit.
Another highly accurate method is Raman spectroscopy, which can identify atomic-level differences in how carbon atoms are arranged. While the basic structure is identical, subtle variations in lattice strain and defects can be detected with this technology.
It’s worth noting that these specialized testing devices represent significant investments for jewelry stores, ranging from several thousand to tens of thousands of dollars. Not all jewelers will have access to the most advanced equipment, which is why many rely on gemological laboratories for definitive identification.
Growth Patterns and Inclusions: The Telltale Signs
When examining diamond engagement rings at Emerson Fine Jewelry, we sometimes notice subtle differences in growth patterns and inclusions between natural and lab-grown diamonds. These differences, while not visible to the naked eye, can be observed under magnification and provide important clues about a diamond’s origin.
Natural diamonds form deep within the Earth over billions of years, experiencing irregular growth conditions. This results in growth patterns that tend to be octahedral (eight-sided) and often display what gemologists call “growth graining” – subtle lines that indicate stops and starts in the crystal’s development. Natural diamonds frequently contain inclusions like mineral crystals, feathers, or clouds that formed during their creation in the earth.
By contrast, lab-grown diamonds typically form in more controlled environments over a period of weeks or months. This controlled growth can result in different patterns – particularly in HPHT (High Pressure High Temperature) diamonds, which often show cubic or cuboctahedral growth patterns. CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition) diamonds may display layered growth characteristics that differ from natural stones.
Some lab-grown diamonds contain metallic inclusions from the catalysts used in their creation, particularly those made using the HPHT method. These metallic inclusions respond to magnets and can sometimes be detected with magnetic testing. This is a relatively reliable indicator, though not all lab diamonds will have these specific inclusions.
Another potential identifier is fluorescence behavior. When viewed under specialized shortwave UV light, some lab-grown diamonds display distinctive phosphorescence (a continued glow after the UV light is removed) that differs from natural diamonds. Additionally, the pattern of fluorescence often follows the stone’s growth structure – appearing more linear or geometric in lab diamonds and more irregular in natural ones.
While these characteristics can provide strong hints about a diamond’s origin, they require both specialized equipment and trained expertise to interpret correctly. Even then, the continuous advancement of lab diamond technology means that these differences become more subtle with each generation of production.
Diamond Certification: The Definitive Answer
At Emerson Fine Jewelry, we emphasize the importance of proper diamond certification as the most reliable method to determine a diamond’s origin. In today’s market, reputable certification is not just a quality assurance tool but the definitive way to know whether a diamond is natural or lab-created.
Leading gemological laboratories such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), International Gemological Institute (IGI), and the American Gem Society (AGS) have developed sophisticated protocols specifically for identifying and certifying diamonds. These laboratories employ a combination of the advanced technologies mentioned earlier, along with expert gemologists who can interpret results accurately.
A proper diamond certificate (also called a grading report) will explicitly state whether a diamond is natural or laboratory-grown. This information is typically prominently displayed at the top of the certificate. For lab-grown diamonds, the report will often specify the growth method used (HPHT or CVD) and may include additional notes about post-growth treatments.
The certification process involves multiple stages of testing and verification. Diamonds are analyzed using spectroscopic methods, fluorescence imaging, and microscopic examination. Each stone receives a unique identification number, often laser-inscribed on the girdle, which corresponds to its certificate. This inscription can be viewed with 10x magnification and serves as a permanent identifier linked to the diamond’s documentation.
It’s important to note that there are significant differences in how these certificates are formatted for natural versus lab-grown diamonds. Many laboratories use distinctly different certificate designs, colors, or terminology to clearly differentiate between the two. GIA, for example, uses the term “Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report” rather than “Diamond Grading Report” for lab-created stones.
When purchasing a diamond, always request to see its certification and verify that it comes from a reputable laboratory. At Emerson Fine Jewelry, we provide complete certification documentation for all our significant diamond pieces, ensuring transparency about the origin and characteristics of each stone we sell.
Consumer Transparency: Ethical Considerations
At Emerson Fine Jewelry, we believe strongly in full transparency regarding diamond origin. The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) requires that lab-grown diamonds be clearly disclosed to consumers, making it illegal to sell a lab-grown diamond as natural. This regulation exists to protect consumers, but it also raises important ethical considerations about disclosure and representation in the diamond industry.
When a customer visits our showroom interested in bridal jewelry, we explain the differences between natural and lab-grown options without bias. We believe consumers deserve complete information to make decisions aligned with their values, preferences, and budget. Some customers prioritize the traditional value and natural history of mined diamonds, while others appreciate the technological innovation and potential environmental benefits of lab-grown alternatives.
The ethical landscape around diamonds has evolved significantly in recent decades. The diamond industry has worked to address concerns about conflict diamonds through the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme, while lab-grown producers emphasize their reduced environmental impact. At Emerson Fine Jewelry, we carefully select suppliers who adhere to responsible practices regardless of which type of diamonds they produce.
There’s also an important conversation about value representation. Natural diamonds have historically maintained value over time, while the long-term value proposition of lab-grown diamonds remains less established as production costs continue to decrease. We ensure our customers understand these considerations when making significant jewelry investments.
Some jewelers have encountered situations where customers purchased what they believed were natural diamonds from less reputable sources, only to later discover they were lab-grown. This type of misrepresentation damages consumer trust in the entire industry. We counteract this by providing detailed documentation and certification for every significant diamond we sell.
Ultimately, there is no “right” choice between natural and lab-grown diamonds – only the choice that’s right for each individual customer. Our role as ethical jewelers is to provide accurate information, authentic products, and transparent practices that respect consumer intelligence and support informed decision-making.
Price Differences: Natural vs. Lab-Grown
One of the most significant practical differences between natural and lab-grown diamonds is their price point. At Emerson Fine Jewelry, we observe that lab-grown diamonds typically cost 30-50% less than natural diamonds of equivalent size and quality. This substantial price difference is often a key factor in consumer decision-making.
The cost disparity stems from fundamental differences in supply dynamics. Natural diamonds require extensive mining operations, with only a small percentage of extracted material yielding gem-quality diamonds. The rarity of natural diamonds, combined with controlled distribution channels and historical market structures, maintains their premium pricing. Additionally, natural diamonds form over billions of years – a timeline impossible to replicate.
By contrast, lab-grown diamonds can be produced in a matter of weeks or months in controlled factory environments. As production technology continues to advance, manufacturing costs have steadily decreased, allowing for more competitive pricing. The growing number of lab diamond producers has also introduced more competition to the market, further driving down prices.
For budget-conscious customers looking at engagement rings, the price advantage of lab-grown diamonds often translates to the ability to purchase a larger or higher-quality stone within the same budget. A customer might be able to afford a 1.5-carat lab-grown diamond with excellent cut, color, and clarity for the same price as a 1-carat natural diamond with similar quality characteristics.
It’s worth noting that resale value considerations differ significantly between the two options. Natural diamonds have historically maintained stronger resale value, functioning somewhat as stores of value. The resale market for lab-grown diamonds is still developing, and their values have shown more depreciation as production costs continue to fall. While jewelry is primarily a personal purchase rather than an investment, this distinction may matter to some customers.
At Emerson Fine Jewelry, we present both options transparently, helping customers understand the current and potential future pricing implications of their choices. We find that different customers prioritize different factors – some value the natural origin and established market of mined diamonds, while others appreciate the technological innovation and value proposition of lab-grown alternatives.